Costa Rica Trip Report, July 2009
I’ve been in Costa Rica long ago on a cruise but did not too many activities. This time I traveled with my friend Michael and his 15 year old daughter Alexis. Since I specialize in customized itineraries, it was fun to plan it including activities. Michael been there 5 times and loves Costa Rica. We thought it would be great destination for teenagers. This was first Alexis trip out of the country so we hoped to get her started interested in travel and adventure just like us.
We only had 8 days so we selected highlights. 3 nights in Manuel Antonio, 1 night in Arenal Volcano , 2 nights in Monteverde and 2 nights on the beach in Guanacaste.
Day 1. July 10. We departed Tampa on AA 6:30am, connected in Miami for San Jose . In San Jose we booked local airline Sansa for 30 min flight to Quepos (Manuel Antonio). Unfortunately AA flight from Miami to San Jose got delayed and we missed our flight to Quepos. The AA reps in Miami were very sympathetic and she even gave us better seats closer to exit so we will exit first. However with immigration, and luggage pickup by the time we ran to Sansa counter, they already closed the flight. They offered to book us for next morning however we did not want to stay overnight in San Jose so we hired a taxi for $150 to get us to Manuel Antonio. The driver drove through mountain roads, and it was raining. It took almost 4 hours because there was a construction near Quepos at the bridge. We also made a brief stop for a bathroom. We finally arrived to Quepos and checked in into our hotel
Costa Verde. This is midrange hotel. Since we were somewhat on budget for 3 people, I found it quite reasonable. We had 2 bedroom bungalow with 2 porches, it was actually a house. It was in the wilderness, secluded area. I chose that hotel because it was on the top of the hill above National park, promised wonderful views of the park’s coastline, and the most important, on the property there was abundance of wildlife. Actually the logo of hotel is “still more monkeys then the people”. There were nice pools with great view.
We had dinner at hotel’s restaurant “La Cantina” with local fish and steak. It was ok and we tried local specialty – rice and beans. We were exhausted so went early to bed.
Day 2, July 11. In the morning we went to hotel’s restaurant for breakfast. It was a beautiful view of the park. Breakfast was a la carte with OK service, nothing special. This day we booked a naturalist guide so they came to pick us up and drove to the park. After breakfast we went to the our bungalow to get prepared for the walk and we saw abundance of monkeys! Red haired monkeys and capuccins. They ran on our roof and created racket. We took pictures of them, then the guide arrived and we went to the park. There was a line to buy tickets to the park, but the guide went somewhere and got us tickets quickly. We went on a walk for 3 hours and we saw sloth, snakes , caiman crocodiles and some interesting insects.
We finished walk on the beach, the guide drove us to the town, we had lunch there, shopped a little bit and they drove us back to the hotel. We had time to rest and in the afternoon we had another tour on ATV adventure with 4Trax. They picked us up and other people at their hotels and drove us to their facility where we went through orientation and started our tour. I never did ATV rides so I was somewhat nervous. I did not want to ride alone so I had a choice to sit in the back either Michael or Alexis. I chose Alexis (15 year old) and it was good choice since Michael fell in a minute on a turn. He quickly got back and we continued. The group was broken down in 2 subgroups and we had 4 atvs in each group. Turned out second group had an accident. Motorcycle was riding past them on a high speed and crushed into ATV. Motorcyclist was injured and ATV rider just had some scratches. Nevertheless, the group decided not to continue so our guide came back and explained situation and we continued.
The guide was very good and showed signs when to slow down and when to change the speed. Alexis turned out to be very good driver and followed directions so I relaxed. The scenery was beautiful, people whom we passed, were friendly waving to us. Some villagers on horseback followed us for some time. We went through forests, villages, beach, mud, you name it. Sunset was terrific. We got covered all with mud. At the end we stopped at the waterfall and had a dip in the water and washed up The tour ended in someone’s house (maybe owner of the company) where we had a very nice dinner prepared at home. It was very good. We got back to hotel late. It was very nice day and I survived. J Michael and Alexis enjoyed it very much.
Day 3, July 12. This day we booked Whitewater Rafting with Kanuto unique tours on Naranjo river. Michael thought it was 5 category rafting and I was concerned since I’ve never did it before. The people on ATV who had 11 year old with them yesterday told us we are crazy to go first time on level 5. It was only first time for me and others had it before. On the way Kanuto (the owner) explained to us that this will be level 3. He said I will be fine. We had 2 rafts and 12 people and 2 guides plus Kanuto on kayak. The guide explained the rules. I got the seat in the back which was good for me. The guide held me a bit at the rapids but nevertheless I managed fine. Alexis fell off the raft once but the guide got her out quickly .Everybody cheered when she got back. Before rafting it was a nice walk on the farm with explanation of herbs, coffee and other plants. Rafting started with a rough ride and rapids. Kanuto was on kayak between our two rafts and was taking pictures. At the end the river was quiet. In the middle, we stopped and had snack – fruit, water and cookies. At the end they drove us in town and we had nice lunch (included in the price). Then we paid were driven back to hotels. I survived second activity..
In the afternoon, we booked horseback riding for Alexis. She is an experienced rider and has her horse at home. He dream was to gallop on the beach at sunset. We were picked up at our hotel and drove to somewhere south of Quepos to the beach. The owner of the stables, Diego Solis met us at hotel on the beach. His farm is nearby however he told us, lately his land became a part of National park and riding on park’s beach is prohibited, therefore he made arrangements at nearby hotel. While Alexis went with Diego for a ride, we had a drink at the hotel’s bar and then went to the beach to take photos of her riding. They provided a dinner for us on the beach and it was perfect evening. The driver drove us back to our hotel…
Day 4. July 13. We checked out from our hotel after breakfast and took taxi to Quepos airport for our connecting flight on Nature air to San Jose and connecting to La Fortuna/Arenal. The plane only had 22 people but it was only half full. It was small Cessna I believe. Pilot flew it low so we were able to see countryside and take pictures. There was a family with 11 year old who took ATV ride with us on the plane so we had someone to talk to.
A note: if you fly little planes in Costa Rica, they have a limit of 30 lbs for suitcase and 11 lbs for carry on. I believe Sansa had 25 lbs weight limit but we missed Sansa flight.
It sure beats long drive. Two flights to San Jose and LA Fortuna took 45 mins but drive would take 5 hrs. We arrive to La Fortuna and their service personnel called Alamo for us where we reserved the car. The Alamo rep came to pick us up and drove us to their office in town where we picked up our 4 WD Toyota SUV which we will keep for next 5 days. Our hotel in Arenal was
Los Lagos. We only had one night in Arenal. We knew it was a gamble since volcano is seen only in good weather. But I wanted also hot springs so we came here. In general, there are hotels on 2 sides of volcano: lava side and other side. The best to see volcano is Arenal Observatory lodge. However in April when we booked it, we were told by locals that lava is not seen lately even from Observatory lodge. So we thought it does not matter what side to stay and I was looking for hotel with hot springs. Tabacon and Hot Springs hotels were too expensive and Los Lagos had hot springs and was well priced. In addition of hot springs (for me), there was lagoon with birds, a butterfly garden, frog pond and caiman area with four caimans! There was also small zipline. So the resort was an attraction by itself. Other than that, hotel is very basic. Staff was not overly friendly. They had free wi-fi however in the lobby which was a plus for me. In Costa Verde they charged $6 for hour of internet.
We went for lunch at hotel and chatted with a friendly waitress Katia who gave us a lots’ of info on the surroundings and even brought us a map. Interesting that reception was supposed to do this job but they as I said before, were not friendly. Our accommodation was quite nice though for the money. We were at a bungalow with two rooms – only one neighbor. Our room was large with two double beds and each double bed also had extra trundle bed underneath. Therefore room can sleep 6 people.
The rain started so we took nap and in an hour went for hot springs. Temperature there was 90 degrees and there was swim up bar. There even was a slide for kids to the pool. The mineral pool spring was large. We met people at the bar who were next door at our bungalow. They were family from Belgium with parents and three children, 5, 15 and 17. Alexis made friends with kids quickly, we talked to parents and liked them . We were happy to find out that tomorrow they are going to the next destination – same place where we are going!
After springs we went for dinner at resort with the same friendly waiter Katia . It was nothing special or gourmet so I do not recall exactly what we ate. We went to sleep after another great day.
Days 5-6, July 14-15. In the morning we had breakfast at Los Lagos, checked once more on caimans, frogs, ants farm and butterfly. Then we checked out and drove to our next destination – Monteverde. The road was mountainous, winding, narrow but beautiful. In one spot we stopped and took pictures. It took 3 hrs to get to Monteverde. We had lunch in St. Helena in a Tree House Restaurant which is indeed built around tree, it was cool. Lunch was good too and they had free wi-fi so I caught up on my emails. After lunch we followed detailed directions given us by owners of our next place – El Sol Nuestro and we very easy found it.
I selected the place because it seemed to me unique – a B&B in mountains, with main house, 2 log cabins in the woods, pool, sauna, horses (Alexis loves to ride). But the most inviting was owner, Elizabeth. She promised when we arrive to meet us with the hug and they did! All people who ruun/work in her B&B were friends or relatives. She runs the place with her son Xavier and help of her friends. We were shown our cottage and we immediately felt at home. Xavier took our dirty laundry to wash. We had incredible views from the house. No locks, very secluded. No windows screens. No a/c, no TV. We had a kitchen and electricity and hot water though , so there were regular comforts. We requested dinner in advance so Elizabeth said her neighbors and friends are cooking. They did not have wi-fi, but Xavier hooked my laptop to his computer dial up (no broadband in this location!) so I was able to check my emails.
Meanwhile our newfound friends – Belgian family from Los Lagos arrived and there were again hugs, kids were happy to see each other. We agreed to have dinner together in the main house. Meanwhile we drove back to town and visited butterfly garden and frog ponds. The species were beautiful. I liked more frogs than butterflies. For some reason in Butterfly garden many butterflies were dead. In the evening, we went back “home”. The dinner was delivered we together with Belgian family had nice dinner in the main house dining room. It cost $10 per person including good Chilean wine and was very good.
We spend long time talking and went late back to our cottage. Night was very comfortable – temp in 70’s. Besides few discomforts (a bites from a spider, and then cat landed in our bed), we had a good sleep. Breakfast was delicious, the best we had in Costa Rica. The owners are originally from Canary Islands so food had some European specialties for a change… We loved fried cheese, interesting jams, and excellent German type homemade bread. And of course more hugs from staff and owners. We planned our day with Belgians and decided to go to rainforest together. Xavier recommended Aventura company and called them to reserve. We went to town and booked bridges tour – it was nature walk in different levels of forest, walking by hanging bridges. We saw snake but not too many animals. We hoped for quetzal but only seen their nest.
Afterwards we booked zipline. It was first time I tried it and I survived. Zipping through stations afforded incredible views but some of them was too much for me to handle. I did rappel but skipped Superman and Tarzan. No thank you. I was not successful in braking so they gave me a guide to zip with me, it was much better. I just hang zipped and guide did all job. Great.
So another great day was over and I was still alive after these adventures. J We came back to the El Sol Nuestro, had some drinks by the sauna and had another nice dinner. Next morning, again good breakfast, multiple hugs, the owners gave us a bottle of Chilean red wine as a gift.. What a nice family….
Day 7-8, July 16-17. Tamarindo Beach
We were leaving for our next destination Tamarindo beach. Xavier gave us good directions which reduced our driving in almost an hour. These directions were not in GPS and we had to break our trip in 4 parts. The road was mountainous, around lake, but very beautiful. We had to stop on the way for break and quick lunch and continued to Tamarindo. JW Marriott was advertised as the best resort in Costa Rica so it was a nice way to finish vacation in style.
JW Marriott is located in the relatively isolated area of Tamarindo, Hacienda Pinilla. It has golf course, Florida style developed villas and now Marriott which is on the beach. It takes about 15 min just to get from the gate to hotel. The beach was very picturesque with some rocks and surf but it was not comfortable to walk in the water – rocks and waves. Pools are huge and beautiful including infinity. But steps only on one side so if you do not jump into the pool but walk in using steps, a long walk around. We visited bar and there were some usual drinks, nothing special. We stayed by the pool and then went to the room to change for dinner. We chose Argentinean restaurant since by that time I did not want rice and beans. The Surf and Turf contained Argentinean beef (very good, tender, prepared like I asked – rare – and lobster was huge Caribbean lobster. I finished lobster but could not finish beef. Too bad, it was delicious. We chose some sides – sweet potato, etc. It was very nice dinner but turned out to be the most expensive we had in Costa Rica. I wish they changed this resort to all-inclusive since cannot go anywhere you without car and are a hostage to expensive restaurants. Otherwise Costa Rica local restaurants are very reasonably priced.
Next day we woke up early to go on our last adventure – deep water fishing. Michael chartered a boat for a full day. The boat was Talking Fish with captain Randy Wilson. Captain said we will need to sail 1 hr into Pacific Ocean where waters are calm and there is a fish. I never did or watch deep sea fishing so this was new for me. We drove to the beach – the place on Tamarindo beach where we were supposed to be picked up - restaurant Nougi. We had light breakfast there. The captain’s crew came on a small boat and transferred us to the Talking Fish. It was large fully equipped boat with 2 first mates (can there be two first mates? Maybe first and second mate). There was a cabin below for rest, two stories, and a fighting chair in case large fish will resist. We sailed 1 hr and soon we saw many activities – dolphins, whales, birds. It was beautiful and relaxed. Fish started to bite and Alexis caught large fish – mahi mahi, yellowfish tuna and large 7 ft sailfish. Sailfish was released. It was a great catch and Michael and Alexis got excited.
I saw how the crew filleted fish and saw blood and I got a bit weak in my stomach. Like hunting, fishing makes me somewhat uncomfortable. Especially catch and release. Where I grew up, fishing was done for living – catch and eat as food. When fish is caught just for play and got hurt and then released, it just did not make sense. Expensive sport. Also in this deep sport fishing, you do not do that much since most job is done by mates. They spot it, You have to do some spinning but then they pull it out for you and you take a picture and either they kill fish for you and fillet or release.
When I finally agreed to fish, by that time fishing ended. I almost decided to become vegetarian however, the first mate offered to make sushi and that changed my mind. J . It was the best sushi we ever ate. Before I thought the best sushi I had was in Tokyo in fish market, but this one was fresher…
Anyway, it was an interesting experience and I found out that I am not a hunter, I am a gatherer if related to homo sapience development …I am glad I did it.
We sailed back to the shore and to a small boat on the beach. We walked to Nougi restaurant and they cooked our fish for dinner. They charged $8 per person but they supplied salad and rice and beans of course J.
We then shopped a little in Tamarindo beach and drove back to Marriott.
I noticed Tamarindo Diria hotel on the beach and while 4* hotel, it would be my choice to stay there so you can walk to a nice beach and be in the middle of action, shopping, restaurants.
We stopped at supermarket - nice mall and did more shopping.
Back to hotel, pack. Next morning we drove to Liberia airport , 1hr approximate time (brochures say 45 min but do not believe them). Roads are still a problem in Costa Rica.
In airport was a chaos and we found out to our surprise that we had to pay departure tax $26 per person. I guess I did not do my research well and did not plan properly. Fortunately we still had cash left but they also take credit cards.
There was no a/c in Liberia and if the flight would be delayed, it would have been uncomfortable.
That concluded our trip to Costa Rica.
Final thoughts.
It was my second trip to Costa Rica (first time 10 years ago on expedition cruise). Last time it was mostly access from the water including small islands and peninsulas. This time I saw more land so it was different perspective. It was Michael’s 5th time. It was Alexis (15 year old) 1st time. She enjoyed it . It is great family destination. Most of the people traveling we’ve met were families. Not too many couples looking for romance.
We used the following modes of transportation for traveling and for fun:
Jet planes, little planes, car, ATV, white water rafting, zip line, boat. Alexis rode horses.
We stayed in different type hotels – from “Monkey jungle” resort in Manuel Antonio – Costa Verde, to full service resort with natural attractions and hot springs at Arenal Volcano – Los Lagos. The best we liked for mountain log cabin and their owners at El Sol Nuestro – to 5* JW Marriott. So it was wide spectrum experience.
We liked natural attractions – national parks, animals, reptiles. I liked the most monkeys at Costa Verde right on our roof. There were not too many animals in Manuel Antonio. Yes we saw sloth and I saw it on my previous visit but with low metabolism this animal hardly moves and to watch it was kind of boring.. I enjoyed frogs and beautiful birds. There were interesting food plants. If I ever come back, I would like to have food tour where we were told you go through the farm, collect food, explain food and then cook it.
Food (my favorite activity!) Food we ate was mostly not impressive. I liked seviche. Fish was simply prepared and was good. We ate many homemade meals so it was interesting. Rice and beans, plantains (good!), dishes kind of Caribbean style but they lacked kick of Caribbean spice. Meat was most of the time overdone and was tough. I did not see good wine there, except in Sol Nuestro had nice Chilean wine. Deserts were mostly fruit and fruit was good. Pineapples were very good.
Out of all areas, Tamarindo was very nice.. I liked it most. I prefer beach destination to mountains. Arenal volcano had plus with hot springs, very pleasant but I suggest to stay longer than one night. One night for volcano if the weather is bad, you miss it. And there are hikes and horseback riding by volcano.
Monteverde forest did not have as many birds, animals and reptiles as we hoped. We only saw some spiders and that’s it. We saw more creatures at our B&B …Zip line was not for sightseeing as I thought but just for thrill. Whitewater rafting was fine but I would not go higher than grade 3.
Best hotel – B&B El Sol Nuestro. Best food we had – breakfasts at El Sol Nuestro and dinner at JW Marriott.
Best service and value – El Sol Nuestro.
Best attractions – hard to say. Probably hot springs but I liked rafting, ATV as well.
Overall, beautiful country, great family destination, friendly people many speak English, easy touring. If you are bored with Caribbean Islands, try Costa Rica. Highly recommended.