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Sophia Kulich, Travel consultant, and owner of www.sophiastravel.com , was born in Ukraine, former Soviet Union. After leaving Ukraine in 1982, she lived in Europe before coming to USA and since then traveled extensively the world. Sophia is now able to share her extensive knowledge of and her passion for travel with her clients. For more info, visit www.sophiastravel.com, www.emcoinc.com, www.jewishtravelagency.com

Saturday, October 21, 2006

2006 Oct Europe trip - Budapest Oct 20 - 24

October 21 We are in Budapest now.
Yesterday we left Paris in the evening on Sky Europe. Budget airline. No first class, pay for food. Like Jet blue, 3+3 seats. But they were on time and prompt. Flew this time from Orly, smaller airport and more manageable then CDG. Closer to paris as well. Arrived Budapest around 11pm, got taxi (need to reserve in advance because a lots of scam rip-off taxis) and taxi driver was waiting for us. Did not speak English but with few words, he got us in the car and in about 30 mins we get to hotel. The driver was driving fast on narrow 2 lines parkway and glancing on TV :-)
He also had GPS but yes, he had a TV and was looking at some soap opera.
Anyway looks like he had in car under control and got us to Le Meridien around 11:30pm or in European hours 23:30.
Le Meridien http://www.starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=1861
it is relatively new hotel , 5*, member of LHW , the room is terrific. This hotel looks very classy and luxurious. Bathroom is terrific. Le Meridien is part of Starwood now and have these heavenly beds. Room is very nice and large, high ceilings. What a refresher from that crumpy mansion in Paris. But service and concierge in Paris Westminster hotel was nice.
I hope Budapest will not dissapoint after Paris. Not sure where we are.. I admit I did not do research on Budapest enough. I think we are away from tourist center Vaci Utca but we are in fashionable district whatever it means.
In the morning George slept and I went outside change money and orient. This country is going to be more difficult. The language is not familiar. We can get by in France since we can understand some word and say some neccessary word. We speak Russian and some words are Universal in both Russian and French. Hungarian is neither slav nor germanic, it is related to Finnish and Estonian. Hard to read and understand. In addition to language, money are in forinths, not in euro. Older people do speak Russian however it brings unpleasant memories being them under communism so I better not use it here. They like Americans though... Some younger people speak english

Now $100 buy you 20,740 HUF. Very confusing . I went outside to change money. I counted and counted... Concierge showed me where we are and where we can walk from here. Next I went to scout for food. After staying in dancy opera district where were not too many local neigborhood food stores, I was delighted that across the park in Le Meridien there was supermarket. I went there to get brunch food. Since our trip is long it is neither economically nor healthy eat large meals at hotel so we try to eat not formal and sample local delicasy. I bought fresh bread, brie cheese, salamis and some very tasty hungarian cold cuts, some fruit, yougurt, ice cream and water. Good thing we have coffee and tea set in the room . This shopping cost me approx $10 (I will spare you conversion). Cont breakfast at hotel cost $20 usd per person. It indeed took some effort to figure out what to buy and how to pay (most shoppers and salespeople did not speak English or very little) but this is an experience we are going to Europe for... I found out that shopping plastic bags are not coming automatically free , you have to ask for it and it cost 6c. I bought it.

We went to Czecheyni baths and soaked in thermal waters. The pools were outside, 38C (100F) so it is warm even in autumn weather. It was very nice. The water supposedly cure from different kind of joint and other deceases. We'll see later but it feels very good. We walked on a the Andrassy boulevard - designated Unesco site. Nice mansions, emabassies , wide boulevard like in Paris.
Too tired to go outside so we ate in hotel's restaurant which turned out to best French restaurant in town. Comparing to Paris, it is not expensive at all.

October 22.

My partner tour operator in Budapest Otto came in today and we had business meeting. Later on his guide came in and Otto and guide Gabi gave us a tour of the city. We went to synagogue , Castle Hill and other sites in Buda ,very beautiful. It was very crowded - too many police in the city and Otto suggested we go to Sztendre, pictureseque Cerbian village outside of city.

Looks like we are in the middle of commemoration event. Today are the latest preparation and dignitaries are arriving today.. First it was exciting for us but our guides arrived today and they are not happy with all traffic restrictions. We modified our sightseeing a bit beacuse of it. We did see synagogue, it is beautiful but looks more like church with moorish architecture but not like synagogue. We went to Buda sights, medieval castle and fishermen bastion and royal palace. Nice views. We went to Cerbian village Sztendre and and had lunch there.

On the way back it was not even possible to walk, not saying about parking. Our hotel is in central location but looks like everyone arrived at hotel and near is British embassy so some big shots were supposed to drive there. In addition some foreign dignitaries staying at our hotels so there are a lot's of cops and secret agent looking types. We had to wait until we will be allowed to walk into our lobby. Today there are lot's of commemoration events. Tomorrow there will be military parade and flag raising ceremony at parlament square. The waving flags everywhere have a hole in them in the middle symbolizing shooting by soviets by hungarian people.

Since we spent all day today with our guides, we heard a lot about revolution. The best way to learn culture and history of other people.

Tomorrow state dignitaries will place flowers of respect at the status of Imre Nagy. The former democratically elected reformist prime minister Imre Nagy was ousted by Kremlin backed Hungarian Workers Party. When uprising started, he was restored as prime minister and he asked Soviets to leave. He became in head of the government. When Soviets crushed uprizing Imre Nagy fled to Yugoslavian embassy but he was given away, transferred to Romania (he thought he escaped but he did not ). Lately he was transported back to Hungary and executed. So he is a national hero.

These are really interesting days and even though we are having issues to move around, it is still exciting to participate in events.

In the evening, The state dignitaries arrived with their motorcades and there were a lot's of police and plainclothes security. The police and security really got annoying since they made tourists wait until they roll out red carpet for some neigboring countries (Serbia, Croatia, etc. royalties and government officials from UK and other European countries.).
In addition, they disconnected internet so this really got us upset. We could not get out of hotel so we went to wellness center . Great pool, jacuzzi, finnish sauna and eucalyptus steam bath. After that we were too relaxed so we again ate at hotel's restaurant. We love our waiters - second day in the row. They gave us the same table....

October 23.
Had breakfast at hotel and walked in the city, today is anniversary - 50's commemoration and there are many exhibits around city. Most stores are closed. We walked and saw 3 synagogues from outside and crossed the bridge to Pest. Went to Gellert bath and soaked there. I liked Zceheny bath better. Gellert is historic hotel and baths are imposing. It was a bit confusing where to change, where to go. There are turkish baths (single sex, no clothes) and thermal pool (coed). I looked at turkish baths. Just women in steam bath and showers. I am not thin but comparing with these bodies really boosted my ego :-)
Attendants are surly but they still direct visitors where to go (massage, turkish bath, pool, etc). They told me towel will be provided later at the pool. So, I went to pool, George made there too.
There were 2 pools - one is for swimming and another for soaking - hot water. I went for swimming, it was large pool. It was strange since everyone was swimming in one direction counterclockwise. I am not a strong swimmer so I swim short lapses. I turned around and looked like I was the only one swimming wrong way. One person bumped into me but continued to swim without apologizing. I think this is leftover from communist regime - everyone swims same direction. Weird. George was laughing.
Then I realized that I need towel. I went to get towel and surly woman said it cost 9,700HUF deposit. I did not have that much money so I tried to give her euro - this is for deposit only for god sake. NO. I said forget it and went back to lockers area where I saw sheets for free. I observed that people were not taking towels to the pool but found a minute when attendants were busy and grabbed two sheets. I walked quickly with 2 sheets and I heard them screaming at me in Hungarian something. I glanced over shoulder and walked faster. She showed me sign in English "please do not take sheets to the thermal pool". I replied in Russian that I do not understand English :-)
So I made to the pool with stolen sheets and the rest was uneventful.
We finished soaking . As I said, Zceheny baths were better . But still we gald we went to both. We walked back via another bridge and strolled pedestrian area Vaci Utca. Many stores, restaurants. It went through to our hotel. We had lunch in cafe Gebraud. It was nice . Then we walked to hotel to rest. In an hour we wanted to go outside .

However there was some kind of commotion outside. We thought this is again foreign dignitaries arriving and departing. Turned out commemoration peaceful event became ugly. I can tell you that our hotel is in the best location beacuse... the auctionis in front it!!! We were lucky beacuse our windows faces square in front of hotel. So we see everything. And we see riot units with rifles at the doorstep, moving to next corner where just tankpassed and protesters throwing Molotov Cocktails. I did not want to miss it and went out to take pictures despite George's protests. I took just few and had to run for cover since protesters threw something which smoked nearby.

The hotel is secure since we have foreign dignitaries from European countries staying there . There are a lot's of security guardsfrom Budapest police and dignitaries personal plain clothes security.Yesterday the dignitaries were going to Opera in their motorcades and staff was rolling and unrolling red carpet for them. Today they rush dignitaries and hotels guests fast in and out.
At 19:00 it is supposed to be a minute of silence but it looks like too much noise with smoke and bullets (it is rubber bullets I hope). Besides police vehicles there was even one tank!
Then there were fireworks but it was kind of strange - fireworks for the event and smoke from the crowd.

I see we are destined to have dinner here again. But we might find out more details so I will write later.

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